Emulation and innovation: Peplum

Fashion always draws from something, as an inspiration, mostly the past. Everything in style, be it a silhouette or a print, has a clear connection from the past which can be vastly explored. Here lets take a look at a current trend: peplum.

The Peplum is an elongated hem or an over skirt- a flared ruffle attached to the waist of a dress, skirt, jacket, pants etc. It creates the illusion of a smaller waist and accentuates the hips. It is one of the trends that has been popular at times, yet has faded away for decades. Currently, its certainly 'in'.

Zara peplum top; Source:pinterest.com

Quite popularly, peplum is thought to have come up recently but it is otherwise. Peplum originated in Ancient Greece. The peplum today can be called a variant of 'peplos', a body-length garment which was a typical attire for women (however, worn by men too) in ancient Greece (500 BC). It was a long, tubular cloth with the top edge folded down about halfway, so that what was the top of the tube was draped below the waist. The bottom of the tube was at the ankle. Further, the garment was gathered at the waist and the top edge was folded and pinned over the shoulders.

Athena wearing a plain peplos, ca. 460 BC

In the Medieval Era, peplum was used to emphasize the small curvy waist and was used to heighten the skirt (for women). It was not draped, rather, there was more flare added to it; it was much more structured and extended outward from the hips. It was still worn by both genders. In the mid 19th century, peplum was popular in the form of jacket bodice flaring at the hips, over the hoop skirts.

Examples of peplum in the Medieval Era; Source: pinterest.com
Top: Fartingale from the Medival Era

Left: Clothing of Friendrich von Stubenberg from 1574

Right: Peplum on dress, France, 1790

During the 20th century, peplum was most popular in the 1940’s-50's and the 1980’s. The cinched waist, curvy figure, hourglass body shape idea came into play once again and, peplums started to become an attached part of dresses, tops etc., contrary to older peplums (over skirt, not attached). This was popularized by Dior's "New look".

Collage of peplum in the 40 and 50s; Source of individual images: pinterest.com, dandylioness.com, fashionandhistory.wordpress.com

During the 1980’s, the peplum rested at the hips and had multiple layers, it was used to add fullness to the skirt of a dress. In the 80’s more variations of the peplum were seen. With some dresses the seam at the waist of the peplums would tapper down to a V, contrasting to the traditional straight across waist of the 1940’s peplum. Other styles had uneven hems and crisscross draping in the front. Designers like Yves Saint Laurent and Theirry Mugler jumped on the trend and it's been in and out of collection ever since.

Collage of peplum in the 80s; Source of individual images: pinterest.com, dandylioness.com, fashionandhistory.wordpress.com

The peplum made a comeback for Spring/Summer 2012 and has been popular ever since. Jil Sander's women's collection in spring 2011 really gave it a comeback. Currently, its is being used in many versatile ways.

There are many styling options for how to wear a modern peplum today. The style is offered in a wide variety of fabrics, sizes, textures, and clothing pieces; there is the high waisted peplum skirt, the peplum jacket, the peplum top, and the peplum dress. There are also detachable peplums, which can e used to style outfits in unique ways. The array of clothing pieces now available with peplums allow for women to find a piece that flatters their figure. These days, the peplum, as in the 80s, is important for party dresses, but similar to the 40s, it is also being done for day wear. The designers have taken it to a new complex level of geometrical, structured or floufy.